231
HISTORY
OF MIDDLEBURY.
CHAPTER VIII.
FACE OF
THE COUNTRY-SOIL-AGRICULTURE-MINERAL SPRING.
ALTHOUGH a considerable part of the mountainous region,
on the east part of the town has been set off to Ripton, there still remains in
Middlebury the first or western ridge. Some of this is valuable tillage land,
and some suitable for pasture lands, but much of it is steep, and some parts difficult
of access from the low lands, and a large share of it, although well timbered,
is too steep and stony to be advantageously improved for farming. Of that part
which lies west of the mountain, some of it is level, alluvial land, on the banks
of Otter Creek and Middlebury River; but most of it is moderately rolling. The
principal elevation, and the only one perhaps, which rises to the distinction
of a hill, is that which lies north-easterly from the village. This has generally
borne the name of Chipman's Hill, because Hon. Daniel Chipman formerly owned the
south end of it, and his residence was at its beautiful southern point. The members
of college, who used formerly to assemble there annually in the spring for their
celebration, gave it the name of the "Hill of Science." Dr. Merrill in his history
of Middlebury proposed to adopt the name of "Mount Nebo," which has not been received
with much favor, and neither of the last two names have been much used in common
parlance. The prospect from the summit of this hill is among the finest in
New England. From it are seen the elevated mountains west of Lake Champlain, the
Green Mountains in the east, including Camel's Hump in the north-east, and the
less elevated mountains of Rutland County in the south, and the extensive undulating
country enclosed by them. At one point, in a clear day, is seen the Lake itself
in the north-west. Professor Hall says of this hill, "Its elevation by the barometer,
above the level of the
232
HISTORY OF MIDDLEBURY
water in
Otter Creek, below the fall, is four hundred and thirty-nine feet." The principal
rivers are Otter Creek and Middlebury River, and the next largest stream is
Muddy Branch, on which stand the saw mills of Nichols and Wheeler and Abbey
and Lovett and the marble mill of Isaac Gibbs. The supply of water on this stream
is sufficient for these works except in a dry season. Of the rivers sufficient
account is given in the preliminary article on the County of Addison, and incidentally
in this history.
Of
the limestone some general account is also given in the sketch of the County.
To this we add the following quotation from Professor Hall. "Lime stone, which,
with comparatively moderate heat, may be changed into lime, exists in almost every
quarter of the town." "Marble of the finest texture and susceptible of a high
polish, is found here in an inexhaustible abundance. The soil indeed of the whole
township appears to rest on a vast basis of marble. In more than a hundred places
does the marble make its appearance above the surface. It is arranged in strata,
somewhat irregular, and of different thicknesses, but all inclining more or less
to the plain of the horizon. It is of various colors, from pure white to deep
grey, verging to a black." Of the quarry owned by Isaac Gibbs, he says-"A white
marble has been quarried and wrought, on a small scale, in the north part of Middlebury.
It has received the name of Kirby marble. When polished, it strongly resembles
the statuary marble of Italy. I have in my mineralogical cabinet specimens both
from this and from Dr. Judd's quarry, which, in point of transparency, delicacy
of texture and general beauty, are not surpassed by any Carrara or Parian marble,
which has ever fallen under my observation."
Middlebury,
we think, as a whole, has not much cause for boasting of its soil or agriculture.
There is much good land, in different parts of the town, and many fine farms.
But a large proportion of the soil is a stiff and not very fertile clay, which
requires too much labor for thorough tilling, to encourage the farmers to make
the needed effort. Much of the dry upland was originally covered with hemlock
and pine, which do not furnish so much fertility to the surface of the soil, as
deciduous forests by their annually falling leaves.
233
HISTORY OF MIDDLEBURY.
There is
also little silicious, vegetable, or other fertilizing substances in the soil
itself. But it has clay in abundance, which is one of the essential ingredients
of a fertile soil, and probably sufficient lime. Other ingredients may be added,
which will destroy its tenacity, and render it fertile and susceptible of more
easy tilling. We have known some of the most productive gardens made on the
stiffest clay, by mixing with it sand, muck or rotten chips and barnyard manure.
The land, in such case, should be ploughed or thrown up into ridges in the fall,
so as to be exposed to the action of the frost, and drain off the surface water
in the spring. This would require considerable labor and expense. But we think
that, where the materials can be conveniently obtained, the farmer would be
well paid by thus gradually preparing so much of his land as he may need for
tilling. The lands, which are not sufficiently dry, should also be thoroughly
drained. But some dry lands, in their natural state are sufficiently mixed with
other ingredients to be easily, if rightly, tilled without any additional mixture.
And much of the lower lands, which were originally covered with ash, elm and
soft maple, have proved to be good for grass, without any artificial preparation.
The alluvial lands and the higher parts of many hills, which were originally
covered with maple, beech and other upland wood, have lighter soils, are easily
tilled and adapted to the production of corn and other crops, which require
hoeing.
Lands
on the east street near the mountain, some of which are sandy, and others more
properly called loam, have heretofore been undervalued, and have been slow in
their settlement. But more recently they have risen in public estimation, and
are now regarded as among the most valuable. Much of the land in the neighborhood
of the village, in the east part of the town and elsewhere, was originally covered
with a heavy growth of pine, which is very valuable for its timber, but not likely
to be selected for farming. We repeat therefore, that while we have much land
of the first quality, Middlebury has not been distinguished for a high agricultural
reputation, among its more distinguised neighbors. The smaller town of Cornwall,
at the first census of 1791 had a population more than double that of Middlebury,
and several other towns in the county nearly double.
234
HISTORY
OF MIDDLEBURY.
The
nature of our soil has induced the farmers to devote their efforts to the raising
of stock rather than tilling. The tendency of this has been to reduce the number
of farmers, and the population in the agricultural parts of the town. But we think
our agriculture is improving, the farms are generally in good and more permanent
hands, and we trust, ere long, we may be able to stand a competition with our
neighbors without discredit.
Peaches
and quinces are not raised here with any success. But apples, pears, plums, cherries
and all other fruits, common to this latitude, are raised in the highest perfection;
as are also all garden vegetables.
MINERAL
SPRING.
The
following is copied from the history of Middlebury, by Dr. Merrill, who was much
better acquainted with the subject than we are. "About thirty or forty rods to
the right of the road, leading north-east from the village, and nearly two miles
distant, on very low land belonging to Messrs. William and Edwin Hammond, within
a circuit of twenty feet radius, are seven springs,-the Septennary Springs. They
appear to be independent of each other, as digging a channel and lowering one
does not affect the others. They have deposited, especially the western ones in
abundance, calcareous tufa, which much resembles that of Clarendon. Some of this
tufa exhibits traces of iron, and all of it probably, when exposed to intense
heat, would show the presence of sulphur. Some of them, especially the largest
and most southerly one, have often proved beneficial in cutaneous diseases; and
in cases of poison, they are said, when drunken freely and used for washing the
affected part, to afford a very speedy and certain cure. When the water about
these springs shall be so drained off, that they can be thoroughly tested, they
may yet be turned to a valuable account.