CHAPTER I.

TERRITORY--FACE OF THE COUNTRY--SOIL--ORIGINAL FORESTS--LIME--MARBLE--STREAMS.

SOON after the organization of the Historical Society of Middlebury, the importance of procuring, as early as possible, histories of the several towns in the County became a subject of consideration. Already nearly all the men who had shared in the occurrences and toils of the first settlement had passed away; and their immediate descendants, who are the next best witnesses, will soon follow them. It is known to all, who have any knowledge of the subject, that no histories are so interesting to residents, especially descendants of the early inhabitants, as the history of the perils and hardships of the first settlement in their respective towns. Yet this subject had been everywhere too much neglected, and was likely to be neglected, unless some exterior influence should be brought to bear upon it. The subject was, therefore, brought more distinctly before the Society, at their annual meeting on the 29th day of December, 1846. At this time a committee was appointed to consider the subject and make report at the next meeting. At a subsequent meeting, on the 23rd of February, Professor STODDARD, one of the committee, made a report, which was accepted, and the plan recommended was adopted, and a committee appointed to carry it into effect. This committee appointed competent agents in the several towns, and sent to them circulars, embracing the plan recommended

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by the society. But the committee have found it a more difficult task than they had anticipated to accomplish so desirable an object. Some of the agents declined the undertaking, and others, who had given encouragement, neglected the task so long that all hope from them has given up. In many of the towns new agents were appointed, and requested to perform the service. In two of the most important towns, gentlemen, fully competent to the undertaking, had collected materials, and made progress in the work; but in the midst of their labors, one of them was arrested by death and the other removed from the State. Notwithstanding the faithful exertions of PHILIP BATTELL, Esq., Secretary of the society and one of the committee, a few only of the histories have been completed. But it was thought best to delay the publication no longer. On examination and inquiry, however, no person could be found willing to undertake the publication of the whole together, as was proposed, or separately, on account of the limited sale which must attend the work. Since the passage of the act of the Legislature at their session in 1858; it is proposed to commence the publication of the history of each town separately, as fast as they are written, and the towns shall furnish the requisite encouragement. The histories are obtained through the agency and published under the direction of the society. But it is to be understood that the society take to themselves none of the credit or responsibility of the composition. These belong exclusively to the several authors.

As the plan is designed to embrace the histories of all the towns in the County of Addison, it is thought proper to introduce them with some general account of that territory as a whole. The County properly has no history. It has its geography and its geology; but it has no active independent existence; no acts or laws of its own to be recorded. It is a field rather, in which the State operates by its acts and laws. It has its courts, but they are established by the State; and it has its officers, but they are appointed or commissioned by the State. Its history is only the history of a part of the State, and the history of the State is its history. This fact may justify the record we make of incidents, which properly belong to the history of the State. In doing so we have relied on original documents,

page 7 HISTORY OF ADDISON COUNTY.

and do not design to give any general history, but to confine ourselves chiefly to such incidents as are not contained in our present State histories, and thus perhaps correct some views and facts stated by them.

The County of Addison is situated on the west line of the State and nearly in the centre north and south; between 43° 50' and 44° 10' north latitude. It is bounded on the west by Lake Champlain, the western boundary of the State; on the north by the towns of Charlotte, Hinesburgh and a part of Huntington, in the County of Chittenden; on the north-east by a part of Huntington, and by Fayston, Warren and Roxbury, in the County of Washington; on the south-east by Braintree, in the County of Orange, and Rochester, in the County of Windsor; and on the south by Benson, Sudbury, Brandon and Chittenden, in the County of Rutland. It embraces at the present time the following towns:

The County formerly embraced an unincorporated tract of land known by the name of Avery's Gore; the east part of which, by act of the Legislature passed November 6, 1833, was added to the town of Kingston, now Granville, and the north part was added to Lincoln, by act of November 12, 1849.

This County was established by act of the Legislature October 18, 1785, and the territory which it contained is described in the act as follows: "Beginning at the northwest corner of Orwell, then running eastwardly on the north line of Orwell, Sudbury, Brandon and Philadelphia, and then so far east as to intersect the west line of the first town, that is bounded in its charter, or some town or towns, which are dependent for their original bounds on Connecticut River as aforesaid, to the south line of the Province of Quebec, which is the north line of this State; then westwardly in said line through. Missisque Bay, &c., to the centre of the deepest

Page 8 HISTORY OF ADDISON COUNTY.

channel of Lake Champlain; then southwardly in the deepest channel of said lake till it intersects the west line from the northwest corner of said Orwell; then east to the bounds begun at; which territory of land shall be known by the name of the County of Addison and the east line of said County of Addison shall be the west line of the counties of Windsor and Orange, so far as they join."

The County by this act embraced the territory to the north line of the State, so far east as to include a large part of the Counties of Washington and Orleans. The town of Kingston, now Granville, not included in the original boundaries, was set off from Orange County to this, by act of the 19th of October, 1787. The act establishing the County of Chittenden was passed on the 22d of October, 1787, making the north line of this County the same as at present, except that it embraced the town of Starksboro, which afterwards by the act of 1797 was included in this County. The town of Warren, which was included in this County, by act of the Legislature in 1829, was annexed to the County of Washington; and the town of Orwell, then in the County of Rutland, was, on the 13th November, 1847, annexed to this County. These constitute all the changes made in the territory of the County since its first establishment, leaving in it the towns above enumerated.

The eastern part of the County extends over the first range of the Green Mountains; and five of the towns are situated on, or among the mountains, and others extend their eastern borders up the western slope. About a quarter of the county is mountainous, or has a soil of similar characteristics. The soil of this tract is generally loam of variable compactness, and some is gravelly or sandy. Some of the hills are so stony or steep as to be better suited for pasture than for tilling. But large portions are not too stony or steep to be excellent tilling lands, and are quite productive of many valuable crops. When opened for a season to the influence of the sun, they produce good crops of corn, spring wheat and other grains, and they are especially valuable for grazing. The alluvial lands on the branches of White River in the eastern towns, and on other streams, are especially valuable for these purposes. The towns west of the mountains are in part very level, and in part, what may be called

page 9 HISTORY OF ADDISON COUNTY.

rolling, with a few hills too prominent to bear that designation. Among which is Snake Mountain, a long ridge of moderately elevated land, lying on the borders of each of the towns of Addison, Weybridge and Bridport. In these towns, the prevailing soil is clay, of different degrees of stiffness, with some loam, gravelly and sandy land, on the more elevated portions, which rise above what is said by geologists, to have been once covered with water.

On the borders of Lake Champlain, especially in the towns of Addison, Panton and Ferrisburgh, are very extensive flat lands, composed of clay, with a mixture of vegetable substances, which were obviously once the bottom of the lake. These lands, when cleared are remarkably productive of grass; but for other crops are too stiff for easy cultivation, and are liable to suffer when the season is too wet or too dry. In this tract are several sluggish streams. One of which especially, being of greater extent than the others, bears the name of Dead Creek. It rises in Bridport, and runs northerly, through Addison and Panton and empties into Otter Creek in Ferrisburgh. This, as well as the others, is supplied to a moderate extent, from small springs at the bottom of the channel, but principally by rain water and melted snow, collected from an extensive surface in small ravines. The stream being nearly on a level with Otter Creek, the water is increased or diminished by the rise or fall of the latter stream, whose waters set up into it. Another called Ward's Creek, also rises in Bridport, and runs through a corner of Addison and empties into the lake about a mile south of Crown Point, and another called Hospital Creek empties into the lake a short distance north of Chimney Point. The quantity of water in these depends on the height of the water in the lake. These sluggish streams afford water for cattle in their neighborhood, through the summer, except in the driest seasons.

Lemon Fair rises in Orwell and runs through the eastern part of Shoreham, southeast part of Bridport, and northwest part of Cornwall, and empties into Otter Creek in Weybridge. In Shoreham there is a considerable water power on this stream, but below that it is very sluggish, and its quantity of water depends much on the light of the water in Otter Creek; in the spring and other freshets.

page 10 HISTORY OF ADDISON COUNTY.

On the borders of this creek are also extensive flat lands, which have no superior for the production of grass.

On the borders of Otter Creek are also extensive flats, which in the spring and other high freshets are overflowed by the waters of the creek. A part of the tract, especially in Cornwall and Whiting on the west side, and Middlebury and Salisbury on the east aide, is so low as to be called a swamp, and, except small patches called islands, consists of vegetable substances to the depth, in some places, of ten feet. These lands when cleared and thoroughly drained become very productive.

The natural growth timber on the flat lands last mentioned, was pine, cedar, tamarack, soft maple, black ash and elm, with an occasional mixture of other trees. And similar timber was the growth of a similar swamp in New Haven, and another in Shoreham. On the flat lands on the border of the lake, the original timber was pine, oak, soft maple, black ash, and some other trees in smaller number. On the western slope of the mountain were a few patches of pike, and in other parts of the mountainous region were fine groves of maple, beach, birch, black cherry and hemlock, and a very handsome growth of spruce, which has become an important article for building and for exportation. In other parts west of the mountains were considerable tracts of pine and oak. Besides these the principal trees were maple, beach, ash, basswood, butternut, walnut and hemlock. The large quantities of pine and oak have been so freely used for building and for exportation, that they have already become scarce and high in price.

In the western part of the County, the lands on the borders of the lake; especially in the towns of Bridport, Addison and Panton, are greatly deficient in water. There are no considerable running streams, except the dead streams we have mentioned. The living water from springs is very limited; and some of these are so strongly impregnated with Epsom Salts, that the inhabitants have evaporated the water to procure the salts for medicine. It is said that cattle are fond of the water, and that the springs were much visited by the deer before the settlement of the country. In some parts the inhabitants are obliged to resort, to a great extent, to rain waiter for

page 11 HISTORY OF ADDISON COUNTY.

family use; and farmers, who live at a distance from the lake and creeks, are much troubled in dry seasons to obtain water for their cattle. Except the limited water power on Lemon Fair in Shoreham, there is none in that town or either of the towns above mentioned of much value. And yet these towns are among the most wealthy agricultural towns in the County.

The range of granular lime stone, which enters this State from Berkshire County, Mass., at Pownal, and passes through the Counties of Bennington and Rutland, passes also through this County. The lime produced from it is of a very superior quality, and is thought, by those acquainted with it, to be much superior to the lime from Maine, which is common in the Boston market. Considerable establishments,--one especially, near the Whiting Railroad Station, built by L. P. White, Esq.--have been formed for manufacturing it; and large quantities are already exported by the railroad to the eastern towns; and the demand is such as to authorize an extensive enlargement of the business, where the requisite fuel is not too expensive.

From this range large quantities of marble are taken out and manufactured in Bennington and Rutland Counties, and exported to every part of the United States. The marble improves, in its fineness and compactness, as it advances north, and it is believed that the best in the whole range is to be found in Addison County. It is of a finer quality than any which has been discovered, unless it be the quarry in Sudbury near the south line of this County. It is pronounced by competent judges to be superior to the Italian marble for statuary, and the only doubt is, whether large blocks can be obtained sufficiently sound. No sufficient exploration has been made to settle that question. No persons have been able and willing to invest a sufficient capital for that purpose. Some injudicious expenditure was made on a quarry about a mile east of the village of Middlebury. But it has been in hands not yet able to make a thorough exploration. Another quarry, on which there has been some expenditure, is at Belden's Falls; two miles north of the village of Middlebury. It was purchased, together with the water power, by the late Col. PERKINS, of Boston, and PERKINS NICHOLS, of New

page 12 HISTORY OF ADDISON COUNTY.

York, both too far advanced in life to engage personally in the business. Under a contract made with them, a company of men undertook to make an examination of the quarry, under the superintendence of a scientific gentleman, Professor FOSTER. The examination was continued for several weeks, and a considerable number of blocks were taken out, and the Professor, to the very last, expressed entire confidence that the marble was sound, and that a large establishment would soon be made for the purpose of working it. But the work was suddenly stopped without any reason known to us.

Doct. EBEN W. JUDD, of Middlebury, was the first person who wrought marble by water power in this State. He and his son-in-law, LEBBEUS HARRIS, carried on the business extensively for several years; but both dying, the business was closed. They wrought principally the blue and clouded marble in their neighborhood, as more easily obtained. They in the meantime purchased the quarry of beautiful black marble on the lake shore in Shoreham, large quantities of which they wrought at their works in Middlebury. It was used principally for chimney pieces; for which purpose we think there is none superior. Doct. N. HARRIS, who afterwards owned the quarry, in company with one or two associates, got out considerable quantities of the marble, and, in unwrought blocks, put it on board boats and sent it to New York, where it is understood there was a large demand for it. We believe the quarries in Addison County will yet be a source of wealth, as well from the lime as the marble to be obtained from them.

There are also, in several places, valuable quarries of limestone suitable for building purposes. The most important are in Panton and neighborhood, from which are taken the beautiful building stone much used in Vergennes; and a quarry of excellent dark blue stone in the south part of Cornwall, in convenient layers for buildings with a handsome natural face, which was used for the front of the College Chapel, and for underpinning of many other buildings in Middlebury. In Weybridge and some other towns is found valuable building stone.

The County does not abound in metallic ores. "Iron ore is found

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in the south part of Monkton in large quantities. This ore makes excellent iron, and has been extensively manufactured at Vergennes, Bristol and other places. But it is said, that it is not rich, and is therefore usually mixed with ore from Crown Point, and other places west of the lake, in order to manufacture it economically.

About a mile north of the ore bed, on the east side of a ridge running north and south, is an extensive bed of kaolin. It is white, sometimes grayish white, dry to the touch and absorbs water with rapidity. It is said, "It might be manufactured into the best China ware." Under this conviction a factory for the manufacture of porcelain ware, from this material, was many years ago established at Middlebury, on the bank of the creek about a mile south of the village. But it did not succeed, either through a defect in the material, or the inexperience of the manufacturer. But it has been extensively used for the manufacture of stone ware, and fire brick.

Notwithstanding the deficiency of water in some of the western towns, we are not acquainted with any equal extent of country, which furnishes a more abundant supply of water power than the eastern and northern parts of the County. Otter Creek is one of the largest rivers in the State. It enters the County from the south in Leicester, through a part of which it passes, and is in part the boundary between that town and Whiting; runs between the towns of Salisbury and Cornwall; through the west part of Middlebury, between the towns of New Haven and Weybridge, and the towns of Waltham and Panton, and through Vergennes into Ferrisburgh, where it empties into Lake Champlain. There are few rivers, of no larger size, which afford, in the same distance, so much safe water power. From the head of the falls in Middlebury, to the foot of the falls in Vergennes, there is a descent of about three hundred feet, in a distance of about thirteen miles, divided into six or seven falls convenient for mills. In some of these, the water has a perpendicular descent, in others it falls over precipitous, rooks, and in some the fall is sufficient to allow the use of the water several times. Mills on none of them are endangered by sudden and violent freshets. For twenty-five miles above the falls of Middlebury, the banks are low, and very extensive level flats adjoin them through the whole

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distance. In a violent rush of waters from the mountains, from melting snows or heavy rains, the water in the creek, instead of rushing in a swollen current down its channel, rises but little before it spreads over an immense extent of country, and is not wholly drawn off until the stream is reduced nearly to its common level. This of course is a protection to all the falls below. Similar flats above the falls at Vergennes, extending far up the Lemon Fair, furnish a similar security to that power. The waters on some of these falls are but partially used, and on several not at all.

At Middlebury, there is on the east side a cotton factory in full operation, and a large grist or flouring mill. On the west are a woollen factory, a grist mill, saw mill, pail factory, a plaining machine and other machinery for working wood, besides another woollen factory not now in operation. At the Paper Mill falls, three quarters of a mile farther down there are on the east side, a paper mill, oil mill, saw mill, carding machine and trip hammer shop: and on the east side a furnace and machine shop. Belden's falls a mile and a half further north, is a very valuable water power, on which there are no works. A mile or two further, and four miles from Middlebury, is Painter's falls in a similar condition. One or two miles further down the stream is the Quaker Village falls, where are a grist mill, two saw mills and some other works, and on the rapids, just above, there was, if not now, a saw mill.

PHILIP C. TUCKER, Esq., at our request, has obligingly furnished us the following account of the falls at Vergennes and. the works on it. "The falls of Great Otter Creek at Vergennes, are divided by two islands into three separate parts. The width of their head is about three hundred and ten feet. The height of the fall is thirty seven feet. The creek furnishes an ample supply of water through the year. On the westerly shore is an iron foundery, a forge with four fires, and saw mill owned by the Vergennes Iron Company, and carried on by WILLIAM H. WHITE, Esq., There is also a machine shop carried on by Mr. WILLIAM. Ross. On the west island, there is a large grist and flouring mill, with five runs of stones, and a plaster mill owned and carried on by Capt. CHARLES W. BRADBURY. On the east island there is one saw mill and a

page 15 HISTORY OF ADDISON COUNTY.

manufactory of hames. The property on this island is owned by Gen. SAMUEL P. STRONG. The hame factory is carried on by WILLIAM R. BIXBY, Esq., On the easterly shore, is a large building erected in 1854 for manufacturing purposes, and a sawmill. The manufacturing building is one hundred and thirty-five feet long, thirty eight wide, and four and a half stories high on the water side, and three and a half stories on the land side. A portion of this building is now used for the manufacture of Sampson's patent scales, a new article lately patented. The saw mill is sixty-four feet long, thirty feet wide, and fitted for a gang of twenty-four saws. These buildings are the property of GREEN, ROBERTS and WILLARD, but the scalp business is carried on by a stock company in connection with the patentee."

A large amount of power is also furnished by the tributaries of Otter Creek, which come down from the mountain on the east. The first in order from the south is Leicester River, which issues from Lake Dunmore, runs through Salisbury village, and five or six miles from the lake empties into the creek in Leicester. From the lake to the foot of the falls below the village, about a mile and a half, is a fall of 150 or 200 feet, available for mills, almost the whole distance. The stream, although not large, has some advantages peculiar to itself. The water, like that of the lake, from which it issues is very pure, and being furnished by springs under the lake or in its neighborhood, is so warm, that it does not freeze in winter, and obstruct the wheels by ice, as is common in other streams. Besides, when the water is raised by freshets from the mountain, it spreads over the whole surface of the lake, and does not rush in sudden and violent torrents into the stream; and it can be controlled by a dam and gate at the outlet, so as to let into it only what is needed, reserving the surplus for future necessity. There is now on the stream a saw mill near the outlet. About half a mile further down, on a fall of 15 or 20 feet, are a forge and shingle machine. Less than half a mile below this is a large woollen factory, with a fall of about 20 feet. At the first fall at the village of about 15 feet, is a large mill pond, on which are a saw, mill, trip hammer shop and a woollen factory. Immediately below this,

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with a fall of 25 or 30 feet is a grist mill, and immediately below the last mentioned, with a fall of 20 feet is a saw mill, and below this at the bottom of the descent, is a fall of seven or eight feet, on which a forge formerly stood, but is not now in operation.

Middlebury River rises in the mountain east of Middlebury, in two branches; the principal of which rises within the limits of Hancock. These unite in Ripton, and the stream descending the west slope of the mountain, empties into the creek near the south line of Middlebury. At the village of East Middlebury, at the foot of the mountain, is a series of falls, which furnish several valuable sites for mills. On these are now a forge, two saw mills, a grist mill, tannery, two shops with machinery for boring, sawing and turning timber for waggons, a machine for sawing shingles, a sash factory and a factory for sawing and fitting barrel staves for the Boston market. For two or three miles on each branch in Ripton, are convenient mill sites nearly the whole distance; and there are now, on the main branch four saw mills, two shingle machines and a grist mill; and on the north branch three saw mills.

New Haven River rises in the northeast part of Ripton, and runs northwesterly through Lincoln, Bristol and New Haven, and empties into Otter Creek at Brooksville, in the southeast corner of New Haven. In its course it receives several streams, on all of which are mills or forges; one in Lincoln, called Downing Brook, which rises in the northeast part of Starksborough, one in Bristol, called Baldwin Creek, and another in the south part of Bristol, called O'Brian Brook. On this stream and its tributaries, are now in Bristol, seven saw mills, two grist mills, one trip hammer, one sash and door factory, one chair factory, one carding and clothing factory and two forges. In Lincoln, there are six saw mills, one shingle and one clapboard machine, and two forges. At East Mills in New Haven, are a grist mill, saw mill and woollen factory. At the lower falls at Brooksville, is a very extensive axe factory, established and owned by BROOKS BROTHERS, which, from time to time, from small beginnings, has been greatly enlarged by its enterprising proprietors. On the same falls is a saw mill. Along the whole line of this river; is a large amount of water power yet unemployed.

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To these streams may be added Little Otter Creek, which has considerable water power and a number of mills in Ferrisburgh ; and Lewis Creek, which rises in Starksborough, and after running a considerable distance, through Hinesburgh and Charlotte in Chittenden County, returns into this County in Ferrisburgh. On this latter stream in Starksborough, are a saw mill, grist mill, carding machine, works for dressing cloth and a furnace, which is employed principally for casting plough shares. In Ferrisburgh also, there are several mills. Both these streams empty into Lake Champlain near each other in Ferrisburgh.

The Brook Trout is the most common and nearly the only fish found in the streams, which come down from the mountains and hills. In the early settlement they were found in great abundance, often weighing two or three pounds. But being a favorite fish for the table, great havoc has been made of them by the fishermen, and the number and size have greatly diminished. It is rare to take one weighing half a pound, and they are generally much smaller. In Lake Dunmore, the source of Leicester River, at an early day, were found large quantities of Lake Trout. The water being pure and clear, like that of Lake George, the fish were of the same quality and size. They were frequently caught weighing fifteen or twenty pounds, and it has been said sometimes twenty-five pounds. It has been said also, that formerly some trout were found in Otter Creek. But we are not aware that they have been found for many years past. The principal fish found, until lately, in this Creek or Lemon Fair, are bull-heads, suckers, rock-bass and eels. The following communication from our friend, Dr. RUSSELL, will give some idea of the fish, which now prevail in both these streams.

" HON SAMUEL SWIFT--Sir:--Agreeable to your request, I herewith communicate the facts, connected with the introduction of Pickerel into Otter Creek: In the spring of 1819, Hon. DANIEL CHIPMAN and others, induced the formation of committees in the towns of Middlebury, Salisbury, Leicester and Whiting, to visit Lake Champlain to procure fish for the purpose of putting them into Otter Creek. The arrangement was successfully carried out ; and at that time large quantities of the different varieties of fish usually taken in Lake Champlain were placed in Otter Creek. From the diary of our deceased townsman, EBEN W. JUDD and others, I learn, that the committee for Middlebury, consisting of JAMES SATTERLY, HARVEY

page 18 HISTORY OF ADDISON COUNTY.

WILLSON, DANIEL L. POTTER, GEORGE CHIPMAN and CHAUNCEY W. FULLER on the 12th of May visited Lake Champlain, and fished with seines at Chimney Point. The party camped out the night of the 13th, and did not reach Middlebury, on their return, until the middle of the next night. The fish taken were transported in water, which was frequently changed on the passage. They were placed in Otter Creek above Middlebury Falls, the same night. Of the many varieties, brought from the lake, all have disappeared, except the Pickerel. They have greatly increased, both in size and quantity. Some weighing over twenty weight,--notwithstanding, the large quantity annually taken from the creek. They are found through the creek, the whole length, from Sutherland's Falls to the. Vergennes Falls, and the whole length of Lemon Fair. They are as much improved in quality as in size. It is said that those taken above the Great Falls at Vergennes, are greatly superior in quality to those taken below, which come up from the lake.

Too much praise cannot be rendered those far seeing and disinterested men, who exerted themselves so successfully for our benefit, and placed within the reach of every resident of the valley of Otter Creek and Lemon Fair, a luxury not to be exceeded from any other water.

Respectfully your friend,

W. P. RUSSEL."